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Archive for the ‘Architecture’ Category

Traffic jam

Among cyclists, Copenhagen has long been considered the promised land.  With almost 40% of citizens regularly commuting to work by bicycle, over 1.1 million kilometers are ridden every day.

This is likely the secret to Scandinavian beauty.

And to be clear, this is no weather paradise.  While admittedly, it is both flat and compact, it is still a northern city characterized by cold winters where the temperatures regularly dip below zero and it snows.

So what’s our excuse Canada?

Well, actually it’s not really our fault.  The big difference is that local government in Copenhagen has invested heavily in cycling infrastructure over the years.  With over 100 km of bike lanes and 22 different routes in the city, cyclists are considered (almost) as important as drivers.  And unlike the white paint which sometimes passes for cycling infrastructure, bicycle lanes are often separated from the main traffic lanes and have their own signal systems.

Cycletopia.

Family planning

As a foreigner unaccustomed to such sights, I couldn’t help but gawk at the onslaught of cyclists dominating the roadways.  From teenagers to grandmothers, to families carrying their children (and groceries, furniture, pets) in carts, cycling in Copenhagen is the norm rather than the exception.

And no, they don’t wear helmets.

However studies have demonstrated that the safety provided through the increased visibility that results from a large number of cyclists, can outweigh the benefits of fewer riders with helmets.  While no one disputes that wearing a helmet is safer, ultimately getting more people on bikes is even safer, and often helmet laws act as a deterrent to that goal.

Counter intuitive, but true.

Windmills

Of course the Danes have long been reputed for their commitment to the environment.  Crossing the transnational Øresund Bridge from Sweden you are surrounded on either side by imposing white windmills that tower out the sea, providing almost 20% of Denmark’s electricity.

In fact, the canal water is so clean that those clever Danes have even built a free public pool INSIDE THE CANAL.  While the jellyfish initially deterred me (they are apparently harmless), I eventually took the plunge and was decidedly, errr, ‘refreshed’.  The perfect ending to a day biking around the city.

Copenhagen – where hipster fashionistas meet environmental sensibilities.

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Traditional Swedish housing in Skärhamn

Sure Sweden is known for their contribution to compact furniture design, cheap hot-dogs and tea lights, but a week in Gothenburg revealed that the country has many other treasures worth discovering.

Idyllic landscapes sweep the countryside and with the use of the Simonsson family car, we set out to discover (some of) them.

Step number one was an obligatory stop at a local loppis, essentially a Swedish garage sale that operates on a semi-permanent basis out of someone’s house.  Here we learned that you can find great buys on kitschy Swedish crockery from the 60′s that sells for ridiculously high prices in the city (and even higher ones in specialty shops in Canada).

Sadly not the most transportable item.

JFL checks out a sheep friend.

Next up was a stop in Skärhamn, a picturesque little town an hour outside of Gothenburg that features an archipelago dotted with classic red Swedish houses that sit atop of rocky outcrops.  A perfect locale for a coffee and an ice-cream.

But the real highlight was our final stop of the day in the Pilane Sculpture Park, located on the beautiful island of Tjörn.  A historical site with 90 judgment circles, raised stones and other stone circles dating from the Iron Age, the ancient remains are surrounded by a cultural landscape that traces back to the Stone Age.

This ancient landscape that provides breathtaking views over the sea north of Gothenburg is juxtaposed with an annual exhibition of contemporary sculptures by some of the world’s leading artists.  Wandering around the park we were equally charmed by the local sheep who graze freely as we were by the sculptures, which are even more delightful in this natural setting.

Lesson learned: Not only can the Swedish make a mean Börje dining room chair, they’re pretty good at art too.

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See that? That's a fjord...

Social democratic heaven is expensive.

Friends warned me that Norway would be prohibitively costly, Oslo especially.  Yet I was still shocked to pay eleven dollars (CAD) to get on a public bus for 20 minutes.

Ouch.

However Norwegians are just such gosh-darn friendly people who you can’t help but love… and perhaps they are so friendly because everyone has a job.  Apparently when the unemployment rate reached 1.5% a few years ago, it made national headlines and was considered a crisis.

Please note: If Canada had a 1.5% unemployment rate the government would be popping champagne and dancing in the streets.

...?

Not only do things function very smoothly is this small capital city, but downtown Oslo is also a blend of interesting architecture and pedestrian friendly spaces.  Including one very strange park which features the work of sculptor Gustav Vigeland.  Featuring more than 212 bronze and granite sculptures, his work is at a minimum ‘interesting’.  Perhaps the pictures speak for themselves (see below).

All of which is underscored by a striking natural beauty featuring fjords and forests.  Thus (of course) the first thing I asked our gracious host Kristoffer Sundøy, while walking along the water in downtown Oslo, was “where can I find the nearest fjord?”

Pause.

“Errr, to your left.”

Ahhhh, so that body of water that Oslo is built around is in fact a fjord.  Well colour me embarrassed!

For some reason I defined fjords as bodies of water surrounded by dramatic cliffs with icebergs drifting through the middle.  Not so.  In fact, geologically speaking a fjord is a long narrow inlet, with steep sides (or potentially cliffs) created in a valley by glacial activity.

Obviously.

Opera House

So while the most picturesque and therefore famous fjords in Norway do have said dramatic cliffs, this is not a pre-requisite.  And unfortunately that type of fjord is not located near Oslo, thus I didn’t get to check them out.  I did however, realize that I have in fact seen fjords in New Zealand, and that Canada also has fjords on our north-western coast.

Good to know for trivia night.

Sadly our local Oslo fjord was seen through a heavy grey film as it poured rain almost the entire three days that we were there.  Such is our travel curse this year, that everywhere we go, the rain follows.

Viking ship remains

Which didn’t stop us from bopping about town and checking out the newly built Opera House which is the architectural talk of the town in Oslo, not to mention an excellent example of place-making.  Built on the (you-guessed-it) fjord in downtown Oslo, it is a striking white building with sharp, clean lines that seemingly slips right into the water.

Designed to invite the public to wander around the space, including its massive rooftop, during a brief sunshine interlude it was the perfect spot to relax and overlook the sweet renaissance festival happening below (true fact).

And if that wasn’t enough, we also got to see original viking ships (Vikings!) at the local viking museum.  Love those friendly ol’ rapist/pillagers.

One day when I save up I might even go back and buy food during the visit (seriously, it’s really expensive).

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Just passing by...

Remember that horrible movie starring Kevin Costner where he developed gills and shot at pirates and everybody moved around on boats and it seemed like it would never end?

That’s not what Venice is like at all.

Despite being one of the most touristy destinations in the world, Venice manages to retain its quiet charm and the inevitable romance of a city built on water.  I mean come on, I dare you to yawn while wandering around the quiet back-street canals, meandering over small wrought iron bridges, and watching Venetians hang their laundry out to dry.

It’s a city built on WATER!

And among the throngs of zip-off khaki-pants (the personal bane of my existence) and camera lenses, there is a genuine community of people who go about their daily tasks that seldom involve donning the elaborate Venetian masks on display to attend a grand masquerade.  Well, maybe once a year at Carnival.

Which makes me wonder about the mundane planning challenges of a city built on water…

Reflections...

Bigger than you might think, the city stretches across 117 small islands in the saltwater Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northeast Italy.  With a population of around 60,000 in the historic centre, this is a dense community crammed with buildings that appear to float magically upon the water.

In fact most buildings are constructed on closely spaced wood piles, which under water (in the absence of oxygen), does not decay.  Rather it is petrified as a result of the constant flow of mineral-rich water around and through it, so that it becomes a stone-like structure (those clever Venetians!).  The piles penetrate a softer layer of sand and mud until they reach the much harder layer of compressed clay.  Incredibly, most of these piles are still intact after centuries of submersion.

Conclusion: building inspections must be a bitch.

However Venice is still under threat of sinking entirely.

Laundry day

Originally caused by artesian wells built in the 20th century, the practice has since been banned.  Yet the city remains threatened by frequent low-level floods that rise to a height of several centimetres over its quays, regularly following certain tides.  In many old houses the former staircases used to unload goods are now flooded, rendering the former ground floor uninhabitable.

While some recent studies have suggested that Venice is no longer sinking, JFL didn’t want to take any chances and insisted we make haste this summer.  So we did.

And fell in love with the art (Venice Biennale!), the food (umm, it’s Italy), the architecture (it’s built on WATER!) and the ambiance of a unique city in this small world of ours.

A small sampling of a true waterworld.

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Once upon a time, just outside of Naples in the Italian region of Campania, a volcano decided to erupt, undoing all of the good planning the Napolitanos had put into it.

Which was a total bummer, because Romans are pretty much the original ‘urban planners.’

Famous for designing complex cities with sewage systems and aqueducts long before their time, the Romans could not have anticipated the power of Mount Vesuvius.  In 79 AD the catastrophic 2-day eruption of Vesuvius completely destroyed many cities in the region, most famously Pompeii.  Buried under four to six meters of ash and pumice it was a massive disaster.

These days disaster planning is a field unto itself, and one that proves more and more relevant as we watch hurricanes, tsunamis and other climate disasters destroy cities.  Building “resilient cities” is all the rage, and as a Vancouverite living on a few too many fault lines for comfort, this all hits a little close to home.

However in a twist of fate, the very ash that created the disaster, served as an incredible preservative and therefore portal into ancient history.  Lost for nearly 1700 years, Pompeii was accidentally rediscovered in 1749 remarkably well-preserved (to archeologists’ delight around the world).

Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, today the buried cities serve as a fascinating example of life of a city at the height of the Roman Empire.

Of course I had to check it out for myself.

However with limited time I decided to explore Ercolano (formerly Herculaneum), a smaller town at the Western foot of Mount Vesuvius.  Similar to Pompeii, the city was completely buried under volcanic material in 79 AD, however unlike Pompeii, the citizens of Herculaneum died of thermal shock from the extremely hot pyroclastic surges, rather than buried under heavy ash.

No dead bodies for me.

But a fascinating look at life almost 2000 years ago.

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Sacré Coeur

Paris has a certain… ‘je ne sais quoi.’

The subject of countless novels, the setting for romantic films, Carrie’s Shangri-la in Sex and the City (and NYC’s rival), Paris has an undeniable romantic appeal.

Not to mention delicious pastries, stylish locals, and wonderful streetscapes.

Yet there are some who yawn and roll their eyes at the mention of Paris, alluding to an overhyped city that doesn’t live up to expectations. Which is silly.

The following are my top ten reasons that Paris is still “all that.”

  1. Croissants. This may be reason enough to visit Paris, as despite my extensive international search, I have yet to find a worthy competitor. Flaky, buttery layers of crisp pastry with a soft warm centre – breakfast as God intended.
  1. Neighbourhoods. A massive city of almost 12 million people, Paris might be overwhelming if not for the charm and unique character of the many distinct neighbourhoods. From the grandeur of Champs Elysées to the eccentric bookstores of the Latin Quarter, everyone can design their own Amelie story. Except for in Montmartre which is completely overrun with tourists trying to recreate Amelie.

Jardin Luxembourg

  1. Walking. Filled with wide boulevards and winding cobblestone streets, Paris is a pedestrian’s dream. Losing yourself in a new neighbourhood, browsing among small boutiques and wandering into intriguing alleyways, almost guarantees a charming photo shoot in the form of ivy-covered mansion from the turn of the century. Check.
  1. Metro. That being said, it’s a big city and sometimes you just need to rest those swollen feet. Cue the comprehensive, relatively inexpensive (10 tickets for 12 Euros), and efficient metro system. Two Americans overheard in Jardin Luxembourg: “It’s going to be horrible to return to Milwaukee (…) where there isn’t any good public transportation.” Yes, yes it is.

The famous Metro font

  1. Art. So. Much Art. It is virtually impossible to wander around Paris and not stumble upon one of the world’s best collections of [insert obscenely famous artist here]. Better yet, if you’re an EU citizen and under 25, it’s all free! Which sadly, I never was. But still!
  1. Eclairs. “But Dara, you already mentioned croissants!” I know, I know I did. But to be honest, I could easily fill this top ten with an assortment of mouth-watering French pastries available on almost every corner (are eclairs also a breakfast food?). Wandering into the hundreds of patisseries and speciality chocolate shops that dot the city is like being, well, a kid in a candy shop… except that I’m 31. Which begs the question, how are French women so skinny?! Jerks.

I know, this is not an eclair... but still delicious.

  1. Hipsters. Wandering around Le Marais was like being on the set of a million simultaneous album-cover photo shoots. Exquisitely mismatched French haute couture labels, accessorized with the requisite casual scarf and leather tote bag, made for some fabulous people watching. Just fabulous.
  1. Architecture. Not into new fashion? Why not drool over the gorgeous old buildings that line the streets! From the gothic architectural stylings of Notre Dame to the Romanesque and Byzantine influenced Sacré-Coeur, Paris is dripping in architectural history. Sipping a cafe across from one of the many turn-of-the-century mansions reminds one of just how ‘petit’ (and poor) we all are.

Le Louvre

  1. Museums. Art aside, why not pick out one of the more obscure museums to spend a few hours in one afternoon? Beyond the traditional masters, Paris houses a collection that ranges from perfume to police museums. My recommendation? The Manufacture des Gobelins, a tapestry museum that traces the history weaving in France and features rotating exhibits. Also an excellent opportunity to practice your French as there are no tours in English. Magnifique!
  1. Picnics. What better way to while away the afternoon than in one of the many beautiful Parisian parks with a spread of cheese, tomato and baguette? While Parisians are not big on grass sitting (it is typically ‘interdit’ and they will let you know!), there are plenty of chairs and benches available, and some coveted green spaces if you are determined to find ‘pelouse.’ Extra points if you sport a beret. Just kidding, don’t do that.

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Paris is fantastic, and despite having visited many times, its charm has yet to wear thin for me.

It’s probably the croissants.

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I can't read this.

What was once the second largest city in the world, is now a rather impressive… pile of rocks.  As a planner wandering around 2000 year-old ruins, I was humbled.

Is this what all of my sustainability efforts are leading towards?

Ephesus was an ancient Greek city, and later a major Roman city, on the west coast of Asia Minor, now just a pleasant stroll away from Selçuk, Turkey.  In the Roman period, it was the second largest city of the Roman Empire; right behind a little city you may know as Rome, the empire’s capital.  With a population of more than 250,000 in the 1st century BC, it is sobering to realize that for all of our great ‘plans’, our cities may one day be stomping grounds for overzealous school groups and Japanese tourist photo-opportunities.

Which means we need to plan more stable tripod locations.

Ephesus contains the largest collection of Roman ruins in the eastern Mediterranean and yet only an estimated 15% have been excavated.  The ruins that are visible give some idea of the city’s original splendor, and I have to say that despite the sweltering heat and claustrophobic crowds (I can’t imagine high-season), I was impressed.

And depressed.

Imagine that all of these folks, from the Dark Ages to the Greeks to the Romans to the Turks, thinking that their technology and planning was advanced and the way forward, which in many cases it was… it just makes you think, right?  And by think I mean question your life path to pursue a career in planning.

Those classics degrees are looking more and more useful.

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Blue Mosque at night

Wandering around Istanbul this week, I was fascinated by the juxtaposed images of this continent-straddling city.  Literally divided between Europe and the Middle East, Istanbul is a colourful blend of old meets new and East meets West.  You are as likely to be walking beside a group of burqa clad women as you are to be sipping overpriced cocktails on a roof cafe.

I was instantly both fascinated and charmed.

Staying in Sultanahmet (ground zero for tourists) is like being thrust into a living history museum.  What was once the world’s largest church now converted into a mosque (Hagia Sophia) is mere steps away from the iconic Blue Mosque, the two buildings being connected by the Hippodrome in this wonderful pedestrian-oriented neighbourhood.  Crumbly stone walls, corner cafes with plump colourful cushions and the smell of döner complete the picture.

Spices

However what fascinated me most, aside from the delicious food (oh the food!), is the diversity.

While Islam remains dominant in Turkey, the urban landscape of Istanbul is shaped by many communities.  Religious minorities include Greek Orthodox Christians, Armenian Christians, Catholic Levantines and Sephardic Jews… not to mention all us tourists bopping about with our cameras and khaki tear-away pant/shorts (which for the record, I have never owned).

While the spectacular collection of mosques dotting the hills are a defining feature of the city (there are apparently over 2,691 of them), there are also 123 active churches and 26 active synagogues.  So how did all this diversity come about?

Those familiar with the Ottoman Empire (…) will know that it was a popular destination for non-Muslim refugees.  After conquering Constantinople in 1453, the Sultan Mehmed II recognized that in order to rebuild Istanbul (formerly Constantinople) he required immigrants to come in and develop the economy.

Turkey – the original immigrant friendly nation.

Hagia Sophia Interior

Friendly to diverse Muslim refugees across the region, the Sultan also took in other folk.  The most famous example are the Sephardic Jews who were given refuge in the 16th century when the Jews were expelled from Spain and Portugal (as well as before and afterward).  Their descendants form the core of the community of Jews in Turkey today.

Neat-o.

While technically Turkey is a secular country that advocates for the separation of church and state (since 1997 hijabs have been strictly banned within public schools and universities), not everyone is so hunky-dory with this policy.  There continue to be raging debates over this and other issues rooted in religion.  Which made this casual observer all the more pleased at the visible and seemingly peaceful day-to-day diverse living in Istanbul.

Unfortunately I can’t seem to get the words to Istanbul (Not Constantinople) (They Might Be Giants version) out of my head while I wander the streets… ah well.

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Spaniards are obsessed with public squares.

The ubiquitous plaza, a Spanish architectural feature, permeates the built environment – from cosmopolitan cities like Madrid, to tiny villages such as Montecorto, the mighty plaza is the heartbeat of the community.  The prime gathering spot for locals and tourists alike, plazas come in all shapes and sizes and are used for everything from children playing football among the pigeons, to grand stages for outdoor concerts.

Plaza de la Virgen - Valencia

And for those of us who just want to look, plazas create delightful postcard backdrops as you sip your freshly made ‘cafe con leche’ and casually watch the beautiful people stroll by.

And in Canada we don’t seem to build them (though we design a mean public park).

Despite current planning trends and their new urbanist leanings, the plaza as a tool for public space remains woefully underused… though perhaps the cafe-sipping innocence of the plaza is not all it appears to be.

For starters, there is some debate about the design origins of the Spanish plaza itself.  Prominent in both Spain and Latin America, it is unclear whether it is a Spanish/European concept imposed upon new world colonies, or rather a design based on indigenous architectural plans.  As we all know, history is written by the victors, and while European architectural history takes ownership of plaza design and construction, competing evidence shows that the plaza came about as a result of Spanish ‘exploration.’

Plaza Catalunya - Barcelona

Not that the concept of a public sphere is limited to Spain or Latin America.  While certainly a hallmark of Spanish architecture, plazas are commonplace across Europe, as well as the Middle East.

So the jury’s still out on the origins.

Even more interesting, however, is the role plazas can play in creating social and spatial boundaries, dividing people by nationality, race, class, ability and gender.  Though plazas may appear to be simple public gathering spaces, they often have storied histories steeped in economical, political and class battles.  Throughout time, certain populations have been permitted access to ‘public spaces’, while others have been prevented from participating.

Which sounds very abstract and academic, no?

However you may be familiar with boys (and young men) skateboarding through public squares, owning a section of the plaza for as long as they can, until authorities come through and ask them to leave.

Skateboarding in Plaza - Barcelona

This is interesting on two levels:

  1. Youth are often excluded from participating in public spaces as they choose, yet are not provided with viable alternatives (e.g. skateboarding parks) by which to exercise their right to participate in the public domain.
  2. When youth are provided with sport-friendly spaces (a growing trend), girls are often excluded from these very playspaces, if not formally, than through unintentional intimidation.  Walk past any public sports field/court/ramp, and you will no doubt find the majority, if not all, participants are male. Now imagine you are a young girl wanting to play.

The reasons behind the aging and gendering of spaces are complicated, and demand both greater inclusiveness in existent spaces, and an increase in tailor-made spaces for marginalized groups (for example, what would a girl-friendly public space look like?).  But there is no doubt that plazas are not as neutral as one might assume.

Historically the plaza has always performed an important function in public protest.  As demonstrated so recently in Tahrir Square Cairo, a plaza can play a critical role in challenging authorities, especially the government of the day.

Plaza Fountain - Granada

The irony of course is that these spaces are created by the very people being protested, and often actions such as protests and strikes result in the temporary closure of the public space, followed by a reopening where the space is policed to discourage undesirables.  Ultimately plazas that do not fulfill the objectives of their creators can be devalued, and either redesigned, or access withheld from the public.

All of which is a reminder that in addition to being important recreational spaces, public spaces are critical components of public discourse, and must be protected, preserved, and fought for.  While this might be obvious to those who work in the planning game, it is reminder that the politicization and privatization of public space happens everywhere, and can have potentially dangerous implications.

As the largest city in Canada, Toronto has two small public squares in the downtown core, Dundas Square and Nathan Phillips Square.  Both plazas became gathering spaces during the G-20 protests in June 2010, however neither could accommodate the large number of demonstrators.  Instead Queen’s Park (you guessed it, a public park) functioned as a makeshift plaza and was explicitly designated a public protest zone – perhaps a reflection of Canadian design priorities?  Sadly the situation quickly deteriorated into a sea of violence as peaceful demonstrators were beaten and arrested without justification.

Just something to think about as you gaze over your steaming cup, relaxing amid the pigeons and the cobblestones…


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Edge of L'Umbracle

La Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias.

I’ve highlighted this incredible Valencian structure(s) before, but as the iconic image of the city, it is worthy of a closer look.  Which could also be taken literally.

From a distance these massive white structures stick boldly into the skyline, sparkling in the Mediterranean sunlight.*  Yet it is only upon closer inspection that thousands of tiny mosaic tiles become visible.

Located in the Turia riverbed, the buildings are set in a pedestrian park zone, juxtaposed against rectangular flat blue pools that reflect the sunlight captured by the mosaics.

Designed by Valencia’s most celebrated homegrown architect Santiago Calatrava, in partnership with Félix Candela, the complex is made up of six main buildings and a rather impressive looking bridge.  Built between 1996 and 2005, the buildings are (in order of their inauguration and with original Valencian names):

  • L’Hemisfèric — an Imax theatre, Planetarium and Laserium (which I can only assume is the lair where Dr. Evil takes his prisoners).  Built in the shape of the eye and it has an approximate surface of 13,000 m² and sits in the centre of the complex.

L'Hemisfèric + El Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía in the background

  • El Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe — an interactive science centre/museum that looks like the skeleton of a whale and is the size of many whales, occupying 40,000 m².

El Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe

  • L’Umbracle — a landscaped walk with plant species indigenous to Valencia.  The space features changing exhibits and is currently showing electronic dinosaurs, much to the delight of 5 year-old boys everywhere.  It also becomes a massive open air night-club during the summer months, which is pretty much the coolest.thing.ever.

L'Umbracle close-up

  • L’Oceanogràfic — an open air aquarium, which is apparently the largest oceanographic in Europe at 110,000 m² .  Built in the shape of a water lily, they sure do put on one heck of a dolphin show.  Of course I am torn between pleasure at seeing all the amazing sea creatures, and intense guilt at witnessing large mammals living in what is tantamount to a bathtub.

L'Oceanogràfic

  • El Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía — an opera house and performing arts center that is dedicated to music and performance arts.  Challenged with some structural difficulties when it opened (you know, like the entire stage collapsing during a performance), things now appear to be on track.

El Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía

  • El Puente de l’Assut de l’Or — a bridge over what was once troubled water (the great flood of 1957 swamped the city, inspiring a river diversion), but is now the dry riverbed Turia which stretches 10 km.  The bridge’s 125 meter pillar is the highest point in the city.

El Puente de l'Assut de l'Or and L'Àgora in the background

  • L’Àgora — a covered purple mosaic dome in which concerts and sporting events (such as the Valencia Open) are held.  During Christmas they put the most adorable little skating rink in, and locals had a good laugh at that silly sport called “ice skating.”  Oh you Mediterranean folk…

Funny enough, despite putting Valencia on the map from an architecture perspective, AND being the most visited tourist attraction in the city, many locals actively dislike the La Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias.

But hey, Parisians hated the Eiffel Tower…

*most photos were taken on a less than sparkling day… apparently Valencia also gets rain – sigh.

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