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Archive for the ‘Italy’ Category

Just passing by...

Remember that horrible movie starring Kevin Costner where he developed gills and shot at pirates and everybody moved around on boats and it seemed like it would never end?

That’s not what Venice is like at all.

Despite being one of the most touristy destinations in the world, Venice manages to retain its quiet charm and the inevitable romance of a city built on water.  I mean come on, I dare you to yawn while wandering around the quiet back-street canals, meandering over small wrought iron bridges, and watching Venetians hang their laundry out to dry.

It’s a city built on WATER!

And among the throngs of zip-off khaki-pants (the personal bane of my existence) and camera lenses, there is a genuine community of people who go about their daily tasks that seldom involve donning the elaborate Venetian masks on display to attend a grand masquerade.  Well, maybe once a year at Carnival.

Which makes me wonder about the mundane planning challenges of a city built on water…

Reflections...

Bigger than you might think, the city stretches across 117 small islands in the saltwater Venetian Lagoon along the Adriatic Sea in northeast Italy.  With a population of around 60,000 in the historic centre, this is a dense community crammed with buildings that appear to float magically upon the water.

In fact most buildings are constructed on closely spaced wood piles, which under water (in the absence of oxygen), does not decay.  Rather it is petrified as a result of the constant flow of mineral-rich water around and through it, so that it becomes a stone-like structure (those clever Venetians!).  The piles penetrate a softer layer of sand and mud until they reach the much harder layer of compressed clay.  Incredibly, most of these piles are still intact after centuries of submersion.

Conclusion: building inspections must be a bitch.

However Venice is still under threat of sinking entirely.

Laundry day

Originally caused by artesian wells built in the 20th century, the practice has since been banned.  Yet the city remains threatened by frequent low-level floods that rise to a height of several centimetres over its quays, regularly following certain tides.  In many old houses the former staircases used to unload goods are now flooded, rendering the former ground floor uninhabitable.

While some recent studies have suggested that Venice is no longer sinking, JFL didn’t want to take any chances and insisted we make haste this summer.  So we did.

And fell in love with the art (Venice Biennale!), the food (umm, it’s Italy), the architecture (it’s built on WATER!) and the ambiance of a unique city in this small world of ours.

A small sampling of a true waterworld.

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Once upon a time, just outside of Naples in the Italian region of Campania, a volcano decided to erupt, undoing all of the good planning the Napolitanos had put into it.

Which was a total bummer, because Romans are pretty much the original ‘urban planners.’

Famous for designing complex cities with sewage systems and aqueducts long before their time, the Romans could not have anticipated the power of Mount Vesuvius.  In 79 AD the catastrophic 2-day eruption of Vesuvius completely destroyed many cities in the region, most famously Pompeii.  Buried under four to six meters of ash and pumice it was a massive disaster.

These days disaster planning is a field unto itself, and one that proves more and more relevant as we watch hurricanes, tsunamis and other climate disasters destroy cities.  Building “resilient cities” is all the rage, and as a Vancouverite living on a few too many fault lines for comfort, this all hits a little close to home.

However in a twist of fate, the very ash that created the disaster, served as an incredible preservative and therefore portal into ancient history.  Lost for nearly 1700 years, Pompeii was accidentally rediscovered in 1749 remarkably well-preserved (to archeologists’ delight around the world).

Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, today the buried cities serve as a fascinating example of life of a city at the height of the Roman Empire.

Of course I had to check it out for myself.

However with limited time I decided to explore Ercolano (formerly Herculaneum), a smaller town at the Western foot of Mount Vesuvius.  Similar to Pompeii, the city was completely buried under volcanic material in 79 AD, however unlike Pompeii, the citizens of Herculaneum died of thermal shock from the extremely hot pyroclastic surges, rather than buried under heavy ash.

No dead bodies for me.

But a fascinating look at life almost 2000 years ago.

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It's a little bit messy...

“When, the, moon hits your eye, like a big pizza pie, that’s amoreeeeee.”

I love food.

Tasting the diverse culinary offerings within Europe is one of the best parts of travelling, and sometimes it feels like I’m doing the food tour of Europe.  Which is educational, delicious and slimming.

Okay, that last one is a lie.

Anyhoo, when my good Italian (and recently Canadian) friend Babs (aka Barbara Lelj), invited us to come and visit in her native Napoli, it was a resounding YES PLEASE!  Home of the pizza, and centuries of Italian nonnas stomping tomatoes with their feet in order to ensure the freshness of their pasta sauce, it was the right thing to do.

The only thing that could make it better?

White waters

Taking the ferry over to the famous isle of Capri, home to celebrity vacations, crystal clear blue waters and posh hotels, to indulge in some of their local epicurean specialties.  Fresh tangy olive oil, limoncello made from obese yellow lemons, and of course most of you will be familiar with the internationally renowned Caprese salad.  A simple dish made of sliced creamy buffalo mozzarella, bursting ripe red tomatoes, garden-fresh basil, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and olive oil, this world-famous starter originated in Capri.  Hence Caprese

Did I mention that Babs’ family has a villa in Capri?  Because they do.

Thus we spent a wonderful week with Babs and her adorable children who tutored us in the art of eating gelato (see more pictures below).  Julia is two and a half and Geoffrey is six months, and they are both incontestably adorable.  And fans of Italian food (well, mostly Julia).

Which got me thinking, why is it that Italians are so good at growing food?!

Those are real local lemons. Size matters.

Capri is a dense little island built along sheer rock cliffs whose steep, curvy roads inspire fear every time you take the tiny buses that wind their way up the mountain at neck-breaking speeds.  Yet everywhere you look there are fruit trees, micro-vineyards, produce gardens and herbs growing.  Edible art, that not only provides local food security but ensures high-quality deliciousness for visitors like myself.

No patch of land was too small to grow something, and in addition to providing food, it creates a beautiful patchwork of green spaces across the island.

In North American urban centres there are growing food movements encouraging people to turn their ornamental lawns into productive food gardens, something the Italians have been doing for centuries.  The solution to this mess?  More municipal staff field trips to Italy.  Obviously.

Julia and I highly recommend the local gelato.

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