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Archive for the ‘Panama’ Category

It’s a palindrome… get it?  Get it?!

But the Panama Canal is so much more than fodder for witty word games – it’s a grand feat of engineering!  Man vs. nature!  Boys digging holes!  A human intervention in sustainability (more on that later)…

Panama Canal

Or more specifically, a 77km ship canal in Panama that joins the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean.  Built between 1904 and 1914, traffic once consisted of approximately 1000 ships annually, and has since increased to over 14,000 ships per year.

Wowsers.  At the tolls they’re paying, that’s a lot of dinero (average $54,000 USD) .

Originally conceived by the French, the first attempt to build the canal in 1880 failed after workers succumbed to malaria and yellow fever (lowly paid immigrant labour of course).  The United States picked up the project in the 20th Century and managed to score a sweet little deal where they maintained ownership and control (obvi), of the most lucrative shipping passage in the world.

Funny that.

It wasn’t until the 1977 Torrijos-Carter Treaties that a framework was developed to transition control to Panama.  And still it took 22 years.

Ship passing.

From 1979 to 1999 the canal was under joint U.S.–Panamanian administration, and from December 31 1999, control of the waterway was assumed by the Panama Canal Authority, an agency of the Panamanian government.

But that was nice of ‘Merica, to give it back now, wasn’t it?  Maybe it had something do with student protests, UN pressure,  ultimately unwarranted deaths, and untenable international optics.  Hard to say.

So… since gaining control of their own land (whaa–), Panamanians held a referendum on whether or not to expand the canal, and 73% voted in support of expansion.  The new program will construct two new sets of locks – one on the Pacific and one on the Atlantic side of the Canal.  The program also entails the widening and deepening of existing navigational channels in Gatun Lake and the deepening of Culebra Cut.

And what does this mean for the world?  One small disaster.

Sustainable shipping.

Traditionally considered environmentally friendly, shipping is growing quickly and maritime emissions are set to leap by 75 percent by 2020.  Research suggests that the impact of shipping on climate change has been seriously underestimated and that the industry is currently producing greenhouse gases at nearly twice the rate of aviation.

Awesome.  Boating is worse than FLYING.  FLYING.  How is that even possible?

The good news is that the increasing rate of melting of ice in the Arctic Ocean has led to speculation that the Northwest Passage may become viable for commercial shipping at some point in the future.  So perhaps the Panama Canal expansion will become unnecessary if we can speed up this global warming thing!

I, for one, am doing my part by flying around the world as much as possible this year (guilt, guilt, guilt…).  Sigh.

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Sustainable Beaches

Sometimes one has to leave the ‘urban’ and explore the ‘regional’… and I, for one, am up for the challenge.

Last week I flew to Panama to meet up with some friends from Vancouver.  Upon arriving I immediately travelled to the bus

Beach Paradise

station where we caught an overnight bus to Bocas del Toro.  All relatively simple save for the fact that the air-conditioning blasted at full force for 10 hours, forcing us to wear every layer of clothing available and cuddle with strangers.

Unsustainable.

Luckily arriving in Bocas, a Carribean-style archipelago composed of six forested islands and countless uninhabited islets, made me less angry about the silly bus ride.

Bocas was lovely.  We toured the various beaches by boat, rented bikes that virtually disintegrated as we rode them, rented kayaks and discovered underwear hanging in abandoned water shacks, and otherwise lazily explored this laid-back coastal town.

We also happened to arrive during Independence Celebrations (right on the heel of Cartagena’s celebrations of independence from Spain, Panama celebrates their independence from Colombia), which seemingly consist of the entire town participating in a giant parade that runs on a loop for 6 hours a day.

No, really.

For 6 hours a day all of the townsfolk wore big band uniforms and marched (read: casually strolled) through the main street, with misery etched on their faces.  Misery due to the fact that the uniforms did not lend themselves to the humidity?  Or the fact that it was their 87th go around the block?  That day.

Hard to say.

And the parade repeated itself all week.  Colour us foreigners confused.

Possibly mud quicksand - time was of the essence.

But the true highlight/experience/story of Bocas, was our last day’s attempt to hike in national forest of Bastimentos Island, to reach Wizard Beach, followed by another short hike to Red Frog Beach.  We were informed that this would be a simple 30 minute “walk” – in fact it felt more like G.I. Jane goes on safari during a tropical rainstorm in flip-flops.

Let’s just say we were inadequately prepared.

Apparently this ‘simple walk’ turns into a grueling, slippery, bog-filled mud of a disaster if it’s rained recently.  And of course it had rained recently.  In fact, we may have been visited by el nino’s cousin the previous night.

Deep mud seemed more like quicksand then national park trails, and we were all wary of running into Rodents of Unusual Size.  Or more likely the rare Strawberry Poison-dart Frog… which is apparently practically impossible to find.

Try our route.

Our footwear choice (flip-flops) was a disaster and we soon discovered a shoe cemetery presumably in remembrance of those brave souls who had similarly tried to conquer said path.

But alas, finally we made it through to the final beach where in the pouring rain, Amber, Lindsay and I started a soggy beach volleyball game with the locals.

Who says we don’t travel off the beaten path

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