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Cycletopia

Posted in Architecture, Culture, Cycling, Denmark, Density, New Urbanism, Public Spaces, Public Transportation, Recreation, Sustainability Planning on July 27, 2011 | 4 Comments »

Traffic jam

Among cyclists, Copenhagen has long been considered the promised land.  With almost 40% of citizens regularly commuting to work by bicycle, over 1.1 million kilometers are ridden every day.

This is likely the secret to Scandinavian beauty.

And to be clear, this is no weather paradise.  While admittedly, it is both flat and compact, it is still a northern city characterized by cold winters where the temperatures regularly dip below zero and it snows.

So what’s our excuse Canada?

Well, actually it’s not really our fault.  The big difference is that local government in Copenhagen has invested heavily in cycling infrastructure over the years.  With over 100 km of bike lanes and 22 different routes in the city, cyclists are considered (almost) as important as drivers.  And unlike the white paint which sometimes passes for cycling infrastructure, bicycle lanes are often separated from the main traffic lanes and have their own signal systems.

Cycletopia.

Family planning

As a foreigner unaccustomed to such sights, I couldn’t help but gawk at the onslaught of cyclists dominating the roadways.  From teenagers to grandmothers, to families carrying their children (and groceries, furniture, pets) in carts, cycling in Copenhagen is the norm rather than the exception.

And no, they don’t wear helmets.

However studies have demonstrated that the safety provided through the increased visibility that results from a large number of cyclists, can outweigh the benefits of fewer riders with helmets.  While no one disputes that wearing a helmet is safer, ultimately getting more people on bikes is even safer, and often helmet laws act as a deterrent to that goal.

Counter intuitive, but true.

Windmills

Of course the Danes have long been reputed for their commitment to the environment.  Crossing the transnational Øresund Bridge from Sweden you are surrounded on either side by imposing white windmills that tower out the sea, providing almost 20% of Denmark’s electricity.

In fact, the canal water is so clean that those clever Danes have even built a free public pool INSIDE THE CANAL.  While the jellyfish initially deterred me (they are apparently harmless), I eventually took the plunge and was decidedly, errr, ‘refreshed’.  The perfect ending to a day biking around the city.

Copenhagen – where hipster fashionistas meet environmental sensibilities.

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Vikings, Fjords and Rainstorms, Oh My!

Posted in Architecture, Art, Cities, Culture, Norway, Public Transportation, Sustainability Planning on July 6, 2011 | 3 Comments »

See that? That's a fjord...

Social democratic heaven is expensive.

Friends warned me that Norway would be prohibitively costly, Oslo especially.  Yet I was still shocked to pay eleven dollars (CAD) to get on a public bus for 20 minutes.

Ouch.

However Norwegians are just such gosh-darn friendly people who you can’t help but love… and perhaps they are so friendly because everyone has a job.  Apparently when the unemployment rate reached 1.5% a few years ago, it made national headlines and was considered a crisis.

Please note: If Canada had a 1.5% unemployment rate the government would be popping champagne and dancing in the streets.

...?

Not only do things function very smoothly is this small capital city, but downtown Oslo is also a blend of interesting architecture and pedestrian friendly spaces.  Including one very strange park which features the work of sculptor Gustav Vigeland.  Featuring more than 212 bronze and granite sculptures, his work is at a minimum ‘interesting’.  Perhaps the pictures speak for themselves (see below).

All of which is underscored by a striking natural beauty featuring fjords and forests.  Thus (of course) the first thing I asked our gracious host Kristoffer Sundøy, while walking along the water in downtown Oslo, was “where can I find the nearest fjord?”

Pause.

“Errr, to your left.”

Ahhhh, so that body of water that Oslo is built around is in fact a fjord.  Well colour me embarrassed!

For some reason I defined fjords as bodies of water surrounded by dramatic cliffs with icebergs drifting through the middle.  Not so.  In fact, geologically speaking a fjord is a long narrow inlet, with steep sides (or potentially cliffs) created in a valley by glacial activity.

Obviously.

Opera House

So while the most picturesque and therefore famous fjords in Norway do have said dramatic cliffs, this is not a pre-requisite.  And unfortunately that type of fjord is not located near Oslo, thus I didn’t get to check them out.  I did however, realize that I have in fact seen fjords in New Zealand, and that Canada also has fjords on our north-western coast.

Good to know for trivia night.

Sadly our local Oslo fjord was seen through a heavy grey film as it poured rain almost the entire three days that we were there.  Such is our travel curse this year, that everywhere we go, the rain follows.

Viking ship remains

Which didn’t stop us from bopping about town and checking out the newly built Opera House which is the architectural talk of the town in Oslo, not to mention an excellent example of place-making.  Built on the (you-guessed-it) fjord in downtown Oslo, it is a striking white building with sharp, clean lines that seemingly slips right into the water.

Designed to invite the public to wander around the space, including its massive rooftop, during a brief sunshine interlude it was the perfect spot to relax and overlook the sweet renaissance festival happening below (true fact).

And if that wasn’t enough, we also got to see original viking ships (Vikings!) at the local viking museum.  Love those friendly ol’ rapist/pillagers.

One day when I save up I might even go back and buy food during the visit (seriously, it’s really expensive).

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Je T’aime, Paris

Posted in Architecture, Art, Cities, Culture, Food (Security), France, Public Transportation on June 7, 2011 | 2 Comments »

Sacré Coeur

Paris has a certain… ‘je ne sais quoi.’

The subject of countless novels, the setting for romantic films, Carrie’s Shangri-la in Sex and the City (and NYC’s rival), Paris has an undeniable romantic appeal.

Not to mention delicious pastries, stylish locals, and wonderful streetscapes.

Yet there are some who yawn and roll their eyes at the mention of Paris, alluding to an overhyped city that doesn’t live up to expectations. Which is silly.

The following are my top ten reasons that Paris is still “all that.”

  1. Croissants. This may be reason enough to visit Paris, as despite my extensive international search, I have yet to find a worthy competitor. Flaky, buttery layers of crisp pastry with a soft warm centre – breakfast as God intended.
  1. Neighbourhoods. A massive city of almost 12 million people, Paris might be overwhelming if not for the charm and unique character of the many distinct neighbourhoods. From the grandeur of Champs Elysées to the eccentric bookstores of the Latin Quarter, everyone can design their own Amelie story. Except for in Montmartre which is completely overrun with tourists trying to recreate Amelie.

Jardin Luxembourg

  1. Walking. Filled with wide boulevards and winding cobblestone streets, Paris is a pedestrian’s dream. Losing yourself in a new neighbourhood, browsing among small boutiques and wandering into intriguing alleyways, almost guarantees a charming photo shoot in the form of ivy-covered mansion from the turn of the century. Check.
  1. Metro. That being said, it’s a big city and sometimes you just need to rest those swollen feet. Cue the comprehensive, relatively inexpensive (10 tickets for 12 Euros), and efficient metro system. Two Americans overheard in Jardin Luxembourg: “It’s going to be horrible to return to Milwaukee (…) where there isn’t any good public transportation.” Yes, yes it is.

The famous Metro font

  1. Art. So. Much Art. It is virtually impossible to wander around Paris and not stumble upon one of the world’s best collections of [insert obscenely famous artist here]. Better yet, if you’re an EU citizen and under 25, it’s all free! Which sadly, I never was. But still!
  1. Eclairs. “But Dara, you already mentioned croissants!” I know, I know I did. But to be honest, I could easily fill this top ten with an assortment of mouth-watering French pastries available on almost every corner (are eclairs also a breakfast food?). Wandering into the hundreds of patisseries and speciality chocolate shops that dot the city is like being, well, a kid in a candy shop… except that I’m 31. Which begs the question, how are French women so skinny?! Jerks.

I know, this is not an eclair... but still delicious.

  1. Hipsters. Wandering around Le Marais was like being on the set of a million simultaneous album-cover photo shoots. Exquisitely mismatched French haute couture labels, accessorized with the requisite casual scarf and leather tote bag, made for some fabulous people watching. Just fabulous.
  1. Architecture. Not into new fashion? Why not drool over the gorgeous old buildings that line the streets! From the gothic architectural stylings of Notre Dame to the Romanesque and Byzantine influenced Sacré-Coeur, Paris is dripping in architectural history. Sipping a cafe across from one of the many turn-of-the-century mansions reminds one of just how ‘petit’ (and poor) we all are.

Le Louvre

  1. Museums. Art aside, why not pick out one of the more obscure museums to spend a few hours in one afternoon? Beyond the traditional masters, Paris houses a collection that ranges from perfume to police museums. My recommendation? The Manufacture des Gobelins, a tapestry museum that traces the history weaving in France and features rotating exhibits. Also an excellent opportunity to practice your French as there are no tours in English. Magnifique!
  1. Picnics. What better way to while away the afternoon than in one of the many beautiful Parisian parks with a spread of cheese, tomato and baguette? While Parisians are not big on grass sitting (it is typically ‘interdit’ and they will let you know!), there are plenty of chairs and benches available, and some coveted green spaces if you are determined to find ‘pelouse.’ Extra points if you sport a beret. Just kidding, don’t do that.

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Paris is fantastic, and despite having visited many times, its charm has yet to wear thin for me.

It’s probably the croissants.

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Lost In London

Posted in Cities, Density, New Urbanism, Public Spaces, Public Transportation, Sustainability Planning on February 27, 2011 | 2 Comments »

London Tube Map

Every time I’m in London I take one look at the “tube” map, a 1000 legged rainbow spider and think, “How wonderfully easy and comprehensive – it goes everywhere!”

And then I try to use it.

Descending into the depths of the London underground, plan for at least 10 extra minutes of walking time… because all of that connectivity means that you’re going to be jogging down long cavernous winding tunnels to the find the correct platform, tense with panic as the tube thwarts your best intentions to arrive in a timely fashion (sorry Naz and Col).  Not to mention potential delays, construction detours, or stops that no longer exist (read: Blackfriars).

And what does the privilege of this experience cost you?  A one way, 2-zone ride costs more than 4 POUNDS. Did you read that correctly?

Yes you did – 4 POUNDS.

Millennium Bridge

Which is about 6.5 DOLLARS.  Who can afford this???  Has public transportation become the domain of the rich, when once us paupers held it so closely to our hearts?

Of course this motivates us plebeians to walk around London as much as possible (read: depending on the quality of your rain-jacket, ‘wellies’ and umbrella/spirit)… if you can find your way through the crowds.

London pulsates with tourists, wandering through Hyde Park, frantically taking photos of Big Ben, charmed by the dirty Thames river and paying exorbitant amounts to see (albeit incredible) theatre in the West End.  All of which requires a strong sense of direction, or… good planning!

Cue: wayfinding.

Map Map Map

Almost 2000 years old, London has none of the nice neat grid patterns that characterize North American cities.  Rather, it is your average European etch-a-sketch drawing, dense to the core and filled with adorable little pubs that practically ensure that you will get distracted/lost in the maze of cobblestone alleys.

Here I give London City Council kudos.

While the underground may be creaking with age, the city bursting at the seams, and the streets designed by a drunk planner playing SimCity, they have done a very good job of wayfinding.

What’s that you ask?

Well, wayfinding is well-known concept used in urban planning to describe “a consistent use and organization of definite sensory cues from the external environment”.  In lay-man terms, how do we find our way around?

All of us have experienced the frustration of losing ourselves in a poorly planned airport, desperate to reach our boarding gate, carrying what feels like 7 handbags and wearing a warm jacket, sweating profusely deciding which hall to turn down, and nary a sign in sight.  Good planning creates a built environment that lends itself to easy navigation.

This way to Buckingham Palace!

London is perhaps my best example to date of good wayfinding.  The City has installed large street maps with magnified highlights on almost every major corner, detailing sites of interest and public transportation options.  Having an oversize map that confirms where you are at any given time is extremely helpful for those of us that still don’t have Iphones (yes, we’re out there), AND want to maintain our peaceful relationships.

Just sayin’.

Additionally the city has orienteering sign poles that direct you to key tourist attractions, again of great assistance to the those with wanderlust.

And most importantly, throughout London streets, one is reminded that most of us civilized folk drive on the right (pun intended) side of the street, and thus you must look in the opposite direction when crossing said street.  Easier said than done.

Thankfully there are signs EVERYWHERE that remind you to do just that.

Given that the city already feels as though it is exploding with people, it is difficult to imagine how the city will handle the additional influx of tourists during the impending 2012 summer Olympics.  Yet thanks to good planning (such a noble profession), when those tourists arrive, they’ll find their way around with confidence.

Lest a tourist be injured...

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El Metro.

Posted in Architecture, Cities, New Urbanism, Public Spaces, Public Transportation, Spain, Sustainability Planning, Valencia on February 3, 2011 | 4 Comments »

Valencia Transit Map

It’s a well-known fact that public transportation is typically much more advanced in Europe than in North America.  This can be credited to several factors:

  • Higher density populations;
  • Compact cities;
  • Older infrastructure that doesn’t easily lend itself to road expansion (thus prioritizing public transportation infrastructure);
  • A more attractive populace**.

Perhaps most importantly, the negative connotation of riding public transportation so present in the North American psyche (most notably in the United States, with the exception of NYC and San Francisco), does not exist.  Not only is it perfectly acceptable to take the subway to work, it is commonplace.

Que maravillosa!

Valencia Metro Car

So, what’s the sitch in Valencia?  Well, not to be outdone by her big sisters (Madrid and Barcelona), Valencia has an extensive underground metro system combined with the first light-rail tram system in all of Spain.  Way to go lil’ guy!

The first line opened in October 1988 and from there it grew quickly.  Currently Metro Valencia has a network consisting of 6 different lines and over 134 kilometers, 19 of which are below ground.  There are 3 future lines being projected, the first of which anticipates opening in 2011.

And what does that mean in reality?

Well, what strikes me as odd, being a regular user of the system, is that despite the extensive infrastructure that broadly covers all corners of this small city, it is often faster to walk than to wait for a tram (which upon boarding, moves at a snail’s pace).  Obviously this depends on the distance between you and your final destination, but if it’s up to 30 minutes away, I usually walk… which negates the role of public transportation, no?

Alameda Station

Unlike my beloved Vancouver (who by no means has a perfect transportation system) where one can reasonably expect to wait for a SkyTrain no more than 5 minutes, the trains in Valencia run at most, every 15 minutes.

While seemingly insignificant to those who don’t use transit, to a seasoned commuter this is the equivalent of being forced to share the car with a group of screaming 5 year-olds, waving around their dripping ice-cream cones, and playing hide and go seek around your legs.

In other words, agonizing.

Secondly, as we have all learned, Spain is very much a country where events start and unfold late into the evening.  So what time do you suppose the metro closes… that’s right – 10:45pm on weekdays and 11:15pm on weekends.  Arrrrggghhh!!  Which means it’s barely available for going out, let alone returning home.  Yeesh.

Inside Alameda Station

However there are many positives, namely that it’s fairly inexpensive (10 1-way tickets cost 6.55 Euros), clean, safe, and connects directly to the airport, which I LOVE.  An added bonus is that my building overlooks one of the metro stops (which is fabulously convenient for a few extra minutes of sleep in the morning).

Also to the metro’s credit, one of the central stops just outside the city centre is akin to a work of art.  Designed by Santiago Calatrava, the famous Valencian architect responsible for La Ciudad de Artes y Ciencias, Alameda station is a glittering spectacle of white on white mosaics, diamond-shaped windows, and futuristic escalators.

The subway exits into the Turia Gardens where paved and translucent surfaces dance among a series of protruding, angled skylights, highlighting Calatrava’s bridge into downtown.

Soooo, that’s neat (public space, architecture, art, blah blah blah).  Now they just need to run the trains a little more often…

Alameda Bridge

** This may or may not be related to public infrastructure planning.

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Yes Indeed, I WOULD Love to Share a Bicycle!

Posted in Cycling, Public Transportation, Recreation, Spain, Sustainability Planning, Valencia on January 14, 2011 | 4 Comments »

Bicycle sharing seems to be all the rage in Spain.  There are bike sharing programs in almost all major (and some minor) cities, and hipsters and grandmothers alike are rocking the ‘ol cruiser, using the classic two-wheeler to make their way around town… and save the world (obvi).

Pseudo-Hipster + Mom!

And what’s bicycle sharing you say?  Well, I’m glad you asked friend… only the coolest sustainable/recreational/hipster movement of the decade!  Or, in lay-man terms, bicycle sharing is:

a large number of bicycles made available to the general public, at a minimal cost, in order to facilitate short-term travel around the city.

Fun-tastic!

While you may have heard of these programs recently, as they seem to be catching on in an increasing number of cities, it is not such a new concept.  In fact, one of the earliest programs dates waaaay back to the 1960s, in the Netherlands – the cycling Shangri-La.  Sadly within a month most of the bikes had been stolen and the rest were found in nearby canals.  Not an uncommon story that spelled out challenges for early advocates of bike sharing.

Well, typically minus the whole canal thing.

Barcelona Bike Share

Things have improved though, and since that time there have been bike sharing programs established across the world, with Europe paving the way.  The first large-scale urban bike share program was launched in 1995 in Copenhagen (no big surprise, as over 37% of commuter trips are made by bike).  The system had riders paying a refundable deposit and then having unlimited use of a bike within a certain area.

However it was the launch of Velo’v in Lyon, France, that turned out to be a watershed moment in bike sharing history.  A bike unfriendly city prior to the launch of Velo’v in 2005, Lyon saw a 500% increase in bicycle trips, a quarter of which were due to the bike sharing system.  Velo’v introduced a number of innovations that were later copied by most other systems, including electronic locks, smart cards, telecommunication systems and on board computers.

VALENBISI

The lesson is clear – bikes can/should/will change the world!

Well, maybe not.  But gosh darn they’re fun, economical, and the added environmental benefits don’t hurt.  Not to mention community-building!  Everyone loves them some good community-building, no?

Well, I would.. if it weren’t for those darn bureaucrats.

Valencia has recently jumped on the bike sharing bandwagon, and one of the first things I did upon arriving was to sign-up for VALENBISI, the local program started in June 2010.  That was in early November.

Four phone calls and three strongly worded (Spanish) emails later, I have yet to receive my access card, meaning I have yet to be able to test it out.  They have successfully charged me the annual fee, a reasonable $18 Euros… if I were able to use it.

A visit to the head office yesterday resulted in a polite shrug, and best wishes for receiving the card soon.  Arrrgghhhh!

Thus I am resigned to promote the idea of bike-sharing in theory, rather than practice.  Worst.  I suppose if I do ever receive my card, then I may be able to post more on the intricacies of using said system.  Or I may frame it and use the card as a reminder of the potential perils of good planning gone astray.

Sustainability, not always the joy ride it’s cracked up to be.

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Safety First…

Posted in Barcelona, Public Spaces, Public Transportation, Spain on November 30, 2010 | Leave a Comment »

Remember that one time that my wonderful partner whisked me off to Barcelona for the weekend as a surprise, and I spent the

At the local, friendly, police station, filling out an incident report.

entire plane ride, and subsequent train journey, warning her about the dangers of being robbed/pick-pocketed in this notoriously slippery-fingered city?  And then, as we were transferring from one of those fabulous European “direct from the airport trains,” into the metro (possibly THE most dangerous place for tourists), I got robbed right after purchasing my ticket?

It was the worst.

Or, I presume I was robbed just after I purchased my ticket, however I didn’t feel anything and only noticed my wallet was missing as I was getting off the metro, prior to exiting the platform.  Given the narrow window of opportunity, I can only assume I was marked while I was buying my ticket, once again reinforcing the idea that we should do away with money altogether, and merely use embedded microchips to make purchases.  Right?

Some of the safety tips that I provided to JFL on the plane, conveniently chronicle the numerous mistakes I made:

  1. Never carry your wallet at the top of your backpack – check.
  2. Never carry all of your ID in one place – check.
  3. Never carry all of your bank/credit cards in one place – check.
  4. Never carry large amounts of cash in your wallet – check.

Tasty tapas also make you feel better.

I hate myself.  I have never, EVER, in all of my many travel days, carried as much cash as I did this past weekend.  And why did I do that?  I have no idea.  And the fact that I am merely one of the on-average 70 tourists who get robbed per day in Barcelona (ridiculous), only makes me feel worse.  I’m not even unique.

Ah well.  After a few tears, some self-loathing, and a sleepless night, I decided to get on with things and enjoy the weekend.  Barcelona, personal safety aside, is a fabulous city full of creative architecture (read: Gaudi), delicious food (read: Ham), and inspired cultural events (read: Arcade Fire).

Did I just say Arcade Fire, the indie rock band from Montreal?

In fact I did.  JFL not only planned a lovely weekend in Barcelona, she surprised me with *tickets to one of our favourite bands from home… perhaps the perfect antidote to losing all of my identification/money!  Unfortunately this poorly shot video does not quite capture the experience… nonetheless:

Luckily we are returning to Barcelona to spend New Year’s Eve there (being the jet-setters we are), thus I will return to write more about the sustainability of this world-class city – bike-sharing, dedicated rapid bus lines, park space galore, and lovely public spaces that lend themselves to colourful street performances.

For now, a few highlights:

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*JFL may or may not have forgotten one of the concert tickets at home in Valencia, which she/we discovered at the entrance of the stadium.  Disaster #2.  This led to some quick thinking on the part of our brilliant friend Joni, who, without explaining his strategy to us, told the security guard that earlier in the day my bag had been stolen, with the ticket inside (small white lie).  Subsequently the security guard asked me for the police report, which unbeknownst to Joni, I had.  Upon producing the very real police report, the kind security guard let us in sin problemas!  Point Team Canada.

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There are two kinds of people in the world…

Posted in Bogota, Density, New Urbanism, Public Transportation, Sustainability Planning on October 7, 2010 | 2 Comments »

Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) people, and Light Rail Transit (LRT) people.

In planning circles (and really dull cocktail parties), this is the stuff that great debate is made of.  And certainly not an argument that will be resolved here.  However Bogotá is oft cited for having instituted a successful BRT system, otherwise known as the TransMilenio, and thus this is a perfect topic for discussion.

TransMilenio Bus

To summarize the main points of debate, it is generally agreed that LRT has two major advantages over BRT:

  1. primarily, a ‘sexier’ image (which is extremely important in order to convince drivers to leave their cars at home and take public transport), and
  2. the fact that it is a more established, proven technology.

The main points of disagreement on the two technologies involve questions regarding:

  • flexibility,
  • costs (capital costs and maintenance),
  • carrying capacity, and
  • externalities (noise, pollution).

Most planners agree that both systems deliver essentially the same service, however there are massive disagreements about which system is more economical.

I’m no transportation planner… however given that buses travel on existing roadways, I suspect that infrastructure investments would be substantially lower than the capital costs required for LRT systems.  Whereas light rails and subways have a larger capacity and are favored in more developed countries, BRT systems are favoured in the cities of the developing world, a pretty good indication that they are cheaper and quicker to build.  BRT was actually pioneered in Curitiba, Brazil in the 1970’s, and later successfully adopted by a number of Latin American cities, including Bogotá, Quito and Mexico City.

But riding buses is not nearly as ‘sexy’ as riding trains (I hear that a bus pass isn’t a great pick-up tool on LavaLife).

As my good friend transportation planner Dan Freeman likes to say, this can be summed up as the BLT factor.  Boys Like Trains.  Though I must say I’m partial to them myself… I think most of us automatically veer towards trains over buses.  Of course most of us have never experienced a BRT system.

And what exactly is BRT?  Essentially a system of elongated buses which mimic a subway in its operation and efficiency.  You can check out exactly what Bogotá’s system looks like here:

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The essence of a BRT system is to make buses move faster and more reliably on major arteries, by reducing or eliminating the various types of delay.  This is achieved by creating dedicated transit lanes… and in Bogotá taking the TransMilenio is infinitely faster than sitting in traffic.  Obvs.

So why do all this?

In addition to the obvious environmental benefits, developing an integrated transportation system through land use planning can serve as a catalyst for a cultural, social, and economic transformation of the city.  Providing affordable transportation while connecting high and low-income neighbourhoods lays a foundation for creating increased integration and access.  Additionally, Transit Oriented Development encourages urban renewal and local economic opportunity in the form of development.

Cool huh?

Yes, and the system in Bogotá works well… unless say, you want to use it during rush hour.  You know, to go to work and back.  You then run the risk of extreme claustrophobia and possible fainting (this happened to a woman on my bus 2 days ago).  It is unbelievable how crowded it is, largely because the TransMilenio currently only operates on one line.  There are major plans for expansion which are being derailed (ha!) by the current Mayor, Samuel Moreno Rojas, who, you guessed it, wants to build a subway.

As I said, BLT.

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