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Archive for the ‘Barcelona’ Category

Spaniards are obsessed with public squares.

The ubiquitous plaza, a Spanish architectural feature, permeates the built environment – from cosmopolitan cities like Madrid, to tiny villages such as Montecorto, the mighty plaza is the heartbeat of the community.  The prime gathering spot for locals and tourists alike, plazas come in all shapes and sizes and are used for everything from children playing football among the pigeons, to grand stages for outdoor concerts.

Plaza de la Virgen - Valencia

And for those of us who just want to look, plazas create delightful postcard backdrops as you sip your freshly made ‘cafe con leche’ and casually watch the beautiful people stroll by.

And in Canada we don’t seem to build them (though we design a mean public park).

Despite current planning trends and their new urbanist leanings, the plaza as a tool for public space remains woefully underused… though perhaps the cafe-sipping innocence of the plaza is not all it appears to be.

For starters, there is some debate about the design origins of the Spanish plaza itself.  Prominent in both Spain and Latin America, it is unclear whether it is a Spanish/European concept imposed upon new world colonies, or rather a design based on indigenous architectural plans.  As we all know, history is written by the victors, and while European architectural history takes ownership of plaza design and construction, competing evidence shows that the plaza came about as a result of Spanish ‘exploration.’

Plaza Catalunya - Barcelona

Not that the concept of a public sphere is limited to Spain or Latin America.  While certainly a hallmark of Spanish architecture, plazas are commonplace across Europe, as well as the Middle East.

So the jury’s still out on the origins.

Even more interesting, however, is the role plazas can play in creating social and spatial boundaries, dividing people by nationality, race, class, ability and gender.  Though plazas may appear to be simple public gathering spaces, they often have storied histories steeped in economical, political and class battles.  Throughout time, certain populations have been permitted access to ‘public spaces’, while others have been prevented from participating.

Which sounds very abstract and academic, no?

However you may be familiar with boys (and young men) skateboarding through public squares, owning a section of the plaza for as long as they can, until authorities come through and ask them to leave.

Skateboarding in Plaza - Barcelona

This is interesting on two levels:

  1. Youth are often excluded from participating in public spaces as they choose, yet are not provided with viable alternatives (e.g. skateboarding parks) by which to exercise their right to participate in the public domain.
  2. When youth are provided with sport-friendly spaces (a growing trend), girls are often excluded from these very playspaces, if not formally, than through unintentional intimidation.  Walk past any public sports field/court/ramp, and you will no doubt find the majority, if not all, participants are male. Now imagine you are a young girl wanting to play.

The reasons behind the aging and gendering of spaces are complicated, and demand both greater inclusiveness in existent spaces, and an increase in tailor-made spaces for marginalized groups (for example, what would a girl-friendly public space look like?).  But there is no doubt that plazas are not as neutral as one might assume.

Historically the plaza has always performed an important function in public protest.  As demonstrated so recently in Tahrir Square Cairo, a plaza can play a critical role in challenging authorities, especially the government of the day.

Plaza Fountain - Granada

The irony of course is that these spaces are created by the very people being protested, and often actions such as protests and strikes result in the temporary closure of the public space, followed by a reopening where the space is policed to discourage undesirables.  Ultimately plazas that do not fulfill the objectives of their creators can be devalued, and either redesigned, or access withheld from the public.

All of which is a reminder that in addition to being important recreational spaces, public spaces are critical components of public discourse, and must be protected, preserved, and fought for.  While this might be obvious to those who work in the planning game, it is reminder that the politicization and privatization of public space happens everywhere, and can have potentially dangerous implications.

As the largest city in Canada, Toronto has two small public squares in the downtown core, Dundas Square and Nathan Phillips Square.  Both plazas became gathering spaces during the G-20 protests in June 2010, however neither could accommodate the large number of demonstrators.  Instead Queen’s Park (you guessed it, a public park) functioned as a makeshift plaza and was explicitly designated a public protest zone – perhaps a reflection of Canadian design priorities?  Sadly the situation quickly deteriorated into a sea of violence as peaceful demonstrators were beaten and arrested without justification.

Just something to think about as you gaze over your steaming cup, relaxing amid the pigeons and the cobblestones…


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Have you ever heard of the exclusive “Barcelona Chair”?  Most likely you’ve seen one… or a cheap reproduction.  Well, here is the original:

THE Barcelona Chair(s)

No really, THE original.  From 1929.  Impressed?  Maybe not.  Well, let me tell you the story of this internationally famous silla…

Created for the International Exposition of 1929 (hosted by Spain), the Barcelona chair was exclusively designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe for the German Pavilion.  An icon of  modernist design, the chair has subsequently led to countless reproductions throughout the world.

You may have seen a few.

During the Bauhaus era, many architects and designers were keen on creating homes and furnishings for the ‘common man’ – however the Barcelona chair was an exception.  Designed so that Spanish Royalty could oversee the opening ceremonies of the exhibition, Time magazine described the chair as inhabiting Mies van der Rohe’s “sumptuous German pavilion.”

Oh that's "sumptuous."

I don’t know about sumptuous… but they do charge you $4.5 euros to walk around what looks like a marble box.  Typical.

Despite the industrial appearance of the Barcelona chair, the construction apparently requires significant hand craftsmanship.  Manufactured by Knoll Inc since 1953, the chair is available in two different steel frame configurations, chrome and stainless.

Of course if you’re lucky enough to be able to afford the genuine product (at $6,658 USD a pop), then you will have the opportunity to show your other rich friends the exclusive Ludwig Mies van der Rohe signature stamped into your chair.

Oh wait, did I mention it comes with an ottoman?

The original Barcelona Ottomans

I guess once you’ve won the Museum of Modern Art Award (1977), you’re allowed to charge as you please.

Disappointingly if you choose to visit the Mies van der Rohe Pavilion, you will NOT be allowed to sit in the chair.  Despite having paid $4.5 euros.  The icon of modernist functional design is no longer functional… ’tis a shame, no?

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La Rambla Buskers

I was walking down La Rambla, the infamous Barcelona pedestrian mall chock full of colourful buskers and chirping parakeets, when I couldn’t help but wonder, “Is it just me, or is the architecture in this city mind-blowing?”

Much like Carrie’s New York, Barcelona is a city where on every corner you stumble upon a creative interpretation of what were formerly known as lines and curves, tauntingly challenging you to ignore their very existence.

Of course much of this is due to Antoni Gaudí, Barcelona’s hero and man of the people.  Gaudí was a Spanish Catalan architect who is renowned for his unique buildings.  Gaudí’s style evolved during the modernist era, but went well beyond the traditional scope of modernist design.  Wandering around the city, Gaudi is everywhere, from public parks to private houses and of course, perhaps his best known work, the Sagrada Familia.

Sagrada Familia Passion Facade

The rising, bulbous towers can be seen from throughout the city, and in a city packed full of tourist experiences, this is often number one.  Though construction started in 1882, Gaudí took over one year later and his influence is clear.  Imagine if Disney had designed a church for religious cartoon characters – this is what I see.

As Gaudí aged he became obsessed with the project yet despite his dedication, at the time of his death in 1926, less than a quarter of the church was complete.  To this day the project remains incomplete, and construction moves at a glacial pace, dependent upon private donations and profits from tourism (it ain’t cheap to get up close and personal with God).

So… why is architecture important?  For starters, often our buildings reflect the beliefs we hold.  And despite the majority of buildings being private, they influence our public realm by their very existence.  Our built environment simply by its aesthetic quality alone, can determine whether we walk down a street or not.

For all you non-planners out there, have you ever wondered who gets to decide what your city look like?  Because in some cases, say just outside the City of Vancouver… it may be one person.  Essentially.  That’s an awful lot of power for one lil’ guy, isn’t it?  As opposed say, to an Urban Design Panel (which is what the COV does).

Sigh.

But back to Barcelona.  Which not only has Gaudí, but also architecture dating back to the Romans who founded the town in 15 BC.  Thus walking around you get an eclectic mix of old and new, sandwiched alongside one and other.  From the undulating curves of Gaudí’s imagination, to crumbling brick facades too old to contemplate, to modernist urban planning experiments in the 80′s.

Barcelona makes you believe in the power of architecture.

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Feliz Año Nuevo!

I have a feeling that 2011 is going to be “The Year of Dara.”  Reasons I believe this:

  • ONE: I ate 12 grapes within the 12 second countdown to 2011 – a cherished Spanish tradition.  The Twelve Grapes has been a Spanish tradition since 1909.  Like all good traditions, it comes from a magical place called “corporate marketing.”  Apparently in December of 1909, there was an overproduction of grapes in Alicante, and a few clever vine growers devised the concept in order to better sell the surplus harvest.  The tradition consists in eating one grape at each bell strike at midnight on December 31st.  According to the tradition, if one consumes all 12 grapes within the allotted time, it leads to a year of prosperity.  Check.

A very young wine on NYE.

  • TWO: I spent said Nochevieja (New Years Eve) in Barcelona, re-living Vicky Cristina Barcelona – drinking up Gaudi, being ambushed by ‘surprise’ art, gorging on Spanish fashion (and fashionistas), savouring tapas,  and sipping red wine.  Sadly neither Javier nor Penelope made an appearance, however the charm of Barcelona is irresistible.  Most importantly, I was not robbed.  Not even a-once.

Miro at BCN

  • THREE: Like most families on New Years Eve, JFL, her wonderful mother Victoria and I, went outlet shopping.  That’s right, in Barcelona Victoria dared to ask the question, can Spanish/international fashion get even cheaper in the Spanish suburbs?  The answer, quite simply, is a resounding yes.  Those of you who know me well, will know that I have long had an obsession with Camper shoes – conveniently a Spanish company that is found in abundance throughout Spain.  Unfortunately the Camper shoes are not so cheap and thus I am typically limited to drooling from afar (or sometimes close, if the staff don’t get too upset).  Thanks to Victoria’s suggestion to go shopping the night of the 31st, I am now the proud owner of two new delicious pairs of Campers for a mere fraction of the retail price.  Meaning I can STILL pay my rent.  Wonderful.

Hellooooo (discounted) Campers!

Yes indeedy folks, 2011 is looking good…

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Remember that one time that my wonderful partner whisked me off to Barcelona for the weekend as a surprise, and I spent the

At the local, friendly, police station, filling out an incident report.

entire plane ride, and subsequent train journey, warning her about the dangers of being robbed/pick-pocketed in this notoriously slippery-fingered city?  And then, as we were transferring from one of those fabulous European “direct from the airport trains,” into the metro (possibly THE most dangerous place for tourists), I got robbed right after purchasing my ticket?

It was the worst.

Or, I presume I was robbed just after I purchased my ticket, however I didn’t feel anything and only noticed my wallet was missing as I was getting off the metro, prior to exiting the platform.  Given the narrow window of opportunity, I can only assume I was marked while I was buying my ticket, once again reinforcing the idea that we should do away with money altogether, and merely use embedded microchips to make purchases.  Right?

Some of the safety tips that I provided to JFL on the plane, conveniently chronicle the numerous mistakes I made:

  1. Never carry your wallet at the top of your backpack – check.
  2. Never carry all of your ID in one place – check.
  3. Never carry all of your bank/credit cards in one place – check.
  4. Never carry large amounts of cash in your wallet – check.

Tasty tapas also make you feel better.

I hate myself.  I have never, EVER, in all of my many travel days, carried as much cash as I did this past weekend.  And why did I do that?  I have no idea.  And the fact that I am merely one of the on-average 70 tourists who get robbed per day in Barcelona (ridiculous), only makes me feel worse.  I’m not even unique.

Ah well.  After a few tears, some self-loathing, and a sleepless night, I decided to get on with things and enjoy the weekend.  Barcelona, personal safety aside, is a fabulous city full of creative architecture (read: Gaudi), delicious food (read: Ham), and inspired cultural events (read: Arcade Fire).

Did I just say Arcade Fire, the indie rock band from Montreal?

In fact I did.  JFL not only planned a lovely weekend in Barcelona, she surprised me with *tickets to one of our favourite bands from home… perhaps the perfect antidote to losing all of my identification/money!  Unfortunately this poorly shot video does not quite capture the experience… nonetheless:

Luckily we are returning to Barcelona to spend New Year’s Eve there (being the jet-setters we are), thus I will return to write more about the sustainability of this world-class city – bike-sharing, dedicated rapid bus lines, park space galore, and lovely public spaces that lend themselves to colourful street performances.

For now, a few highlights:

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*JFL may or may not have forgotten one of the concert tickets at home in Valencia, which she/we discovered at the entrance of the stadium.  Disaster #2.  This led to some quick thinking on the part of our brilliant friend Joni, who, without explaining his strategy to us, told the security guard that earlier in the day my bag had been stolen, with the ticket inside (small white lie).  Subsequently the security guard asked me for the police report, which unbeknownst to Joni, I had.  Upon producing the very real police report, the kind security guard let us in sin problemas!  Point Team Canada.

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